Friday, June 7, 2013

Spinnin' Kaleidoscope.

Hey y'all, I'm gonna try something new this time around! Here’s some stream of conscious/unrefined excerpts from my journal from every day this past week. Mix 'n match between Sunday's comic relief, Monday's  dedication to an old teacher of my own, Tuesday's pig poo hunt, Wednesday's restless musings, and a brush with corruption and sexism on Thursday! And of course, Friday, I fought the law (aka 8th grade mobocracy) and won. Enjoy the crazy lack of filter and candidness. Dig in!

[SUNDAY]

 A day of anger and confusion (okay being a little dramatic here) that shall otherwise remain forgotten except for the meritable achievement of grading 300+ exams NONSTOP. 

WHO DOES THAT TO THEMSELVES?!? noob.

Creative artistic interpretation of Teacher Karina (me)

[MONDAY]

Passed back tests to all five Turmas. Was immediately begged for "recooperacao" or extra credit. I told my students I don't believe in extra credit, that they should study harder next time. There were a handful of kids that actually did really well!! So, I know the test was doable, and I'm a lenient-benefit-of-the-doubt grader anyways. I'd also like to believe tough love builds character. Thank you Mr. Driscoll for teaching me that invaluable life lesson (he failed my whole 10th grade Honors English class and put us in "grammar hell" until we worked our way out of it! Move over Dante, we've got another Inferno on our hands!! Hahahaha, ooooh where are all my fellow English majors when I need them!? ;) Someone's gotta laugh at my nerdy jokes!)


[TUESDAY]

My day off!!  Can't remember what I did today. Nothing? Naw. Maybe I sat and stared at my hut's awesome ceiling watching my gecko family eat bugs, and listened to This American Life. Probs. Ira Glass has a sexy brain. Oh, yeah, I shoveled some "poo do porku" and hung out with the neighbors under the big Baobob tree that I've been wanting to wander out to for a while. It’s taken me about two months of fofoca-ing (gossip) to figure out who could hook me up with “estrumo” without paying money. No way do I want to spend my precious meticais on…well… you know. Planted carrots and tomatoes. Peppers and lettuce will follow this weekend. It's 7:30. BEDTIME. MUWAH. Such a granny!


[WEDNESDAY]

I woke up this morning to discover a particularly asshole-ish mosquito had bitten the top of my boob (try scratching that in-front of 60 eighth graders! Man, I was trying out every "readjustment" strategy in the book! HAH!). Also, had to run the N-1 sim iPod - feel like that type of plod, plod, shuffle beat sets the bar pretty low for the rest of your day. But it'll only get better!

Or. Not.

In general, the restlessness came on hard and strong today. And while some monotony (although my life is hardly monotonous!) is a lovely indicator of a well-established routine and proof that my life here is "normal" having integrated well into the rhythm of my community, the reality of course is that I'm living in a small, fairly isolated village. And that reality can make even the most content and happy PCV start to feel itchin' to get out and see the rest of Mozambique sometimes. As such, I caught myself Googling random things like "How-far-is-it-to-walk-from-Mapinhane-to-Kilimanjaro" (585 hours, or 2,870 kilometers if you were curious). I'll even begrudgingly admit to searching for flights home for Christmas... a huge turn of events for a girl who a week ago was morally opposed to the use of parental dinerho for anything other than traveling Africa. So what changed?

I'm not homesick. I'm not unhappy. Quite the opposite really. Whenever I do travel away from site for weekenders I always look forward to going "home" to my little hut, hanging out with my neighbors, taking care of my garden. 

But I had a late-night convo with an awesome friend/fellow-PCV a couple weeks back about just what I was being so stubborn about in my refusal to go home. At the time I rambled on about wanting to prove to myself that I could do it, that I could sacrifice and go without all the things I deeply love for two full years to focus on the needs of other people. Then I'd truly understand what it means to serve selflessly right?

But then the "Africa-will-always-be-there" argument was posed... and I stumbled. I mean yeah, Africa WILL always be there. Mt. Kilimanjaro will always be climbable (although the glaciers won't be there in ten years womp womp, woooomp... oops, bad joke, too soon!?). People WILL always need help, care, education, or nurturing. That night, I shelved these original musings to the back of my mind and rolled over to sleep. Yet, after having this conversation keep popping up over the following week, I realized I probably didn't have a very good answer to my dilemma. Or rather, my answer was rooted simultaneously in pride and a rather philosophical value of self-deprivation. That it was better if I "toughed out" the two years for what it would teach me about myself than to appreciate the things that I already had - wonderfully wise and hip parents, loving, adventurous, supportive friends, a beautiful homestate...

(Lets just say there was a reason my parents had to pull the car over for me to vomit up my last breakfast on the way to the airport nine months ago... In a way it’s like I had convinced myself I wasn’t ever coming home again! At that moment, 27-months felt like an eternity!)

And knowing that my future career path will most likely take me across the globe and (again) far from the people I love, is it foolish to not take an opportunity to go home when an opportunity arises? Would there be regret later? 

And so, for the first time I'm looking at going home halfway through my service as a viable option. We shall see. I might change my mind again tomorrow.

[THURSDAY]

I walked out again on the hooligans of Turma A and this time didn't come back. Moreover, I gave them the school-appropriate equivalent of the middle finger by going straight to Dir. Adelaide and asking her to lecture their disrespectful you-know-whats. No wheedling the Dir. de Turma this time when all he'll do is just find some scapegoat kid to beat on a little to scare the others OR brush me off with the Portuguese equivalent of "boys will be boys" and do nothing. Going straight to the WOMAN in charge thankyouverymuch!!!

Moreover, I bypassed Turma A's appeals for forgiveness and went to teach Turma B instead (since surprise surprise they didn't have a Prof...). I love Turma B - they're great kids. And I told them so. They try, they participate, the listen. Turma A may be "smarter" in the sense that they do better on tests, but I would take any turma of kids who need more guidance but also who want to learn, over a turma of sycophants.

Also today, after finding out that I had missed yet another meeting because I was magically supposed to know about it without anyone telling me, I talked with the other three female profs, Hermenigilda, Gloria, and Angelica, and found out that they hadn't been told either... AGAIN. It seems like us ladies are regularly being unrepresented at these school meetings!! That makes me soooo mad! What's more, apparently there's been some discrepancy with recording our number of faltas (absences). Sounds like (from what I could make out of the angrily fired Portuguese amongst my colegas) some profs are gone all the time yet their faltas magically disappear while other pros (again, primarily the women) have faltas recorded that are incorrect/falliciously changed! There's suspicion that white-out was even used on numerous Livro do Ponto entries to change the attendence record AFTER the professoras had already signed to its veracity!!  Unbelievable.

Let me tell you, corruption sucks (obviously). But! When the perpetrators of corruption suddenly, explicitly wear the faces of your colleagues, especially the ones you like and trust to look out for you as not only your colleague but your friend, it sucks when their suspected of such discriminatory transgressions.

We'll see how this whole fiasco pans out. The ladies kept saying "vamos falar, vamos falar" ...but whether they actually are able or want to air their grievances... we'll see.

The thing that disturbed me about this whole incident too is where I fall in this equation. I am "woman enough" to be included in sexist discrimination at meetings (aka being viewed as unimportant or simply forgotten), but not "woman enough" to qualify for discrimination in pay, (ie through the suspected falsified falta scheme). Unlike my female colleagues, my faltas were correct and unchanged. Or rather, the one time I had a falta recorded incorrectly, I brought it up and it was immediately on-the-spot changed with all sorts of  chagrin and apologies. Yet, when Hermenigilda tried to do the same thing she was told she was "wrong" that she actually had "missed more days then she thought" or "recorded". And that was that. No one to appeal to. Nothing to do except choke it back and move on. It's infuriating.

My faltas mean nothing financially for me - it operates more as a self-check. But for everyone else, it's your salary that gets whittled away with each "absence." And salaries have to go a long way here to make ends meet. It affects if you can eat three-meals-a-day, how you live, and essentially your whole ability to be mobile! For Gloria and Angelica, mobility is key because they have families (including a 1 year old baby!) living four hours south of Mapinhane in other towns. They can only afford to home to see their kids and families once or twice a month. And if their wages are late (as they frequently are), then they're delayed from seeing their families even longer! It's cruel. Single moms like Gloria and Angelica are the sole providers for themselves, their children, and usually even their parents. So in other words, these forged faltas have a significant impact on not only their quality of life, but the lives they're responsible for caring for!

Yet, I am the one school admin bends over backwards for to please ad apologize?! That's so *ucked up in soooooo many ways.

Moreover, I've been asking myself all day, "what can I do about this?! Unlike my colegas, I get listened to when I make a fuss. Perhaps what overcomes my "womanness" is my whiteness. Plan and simple. Being a mulungu makes me exempt from certain rules and/or offers me more privilege, leniency, and status without reason. Would I have as much to lose if I did some movin' and shakin' with the admin for my female Mozambican colleagues? No. Worst-case-scenario is that I confront the right person in a way they can't save face from and then alienate myself from admin and my other colleagues who can't risk offering me comraderie. And I suppose that'd be pretty devastating.

Yet, isn't not doing anything just as bad if not worse?? It'd be like saying, "Well ladies, that's the way it is, you might as well get used to getting screwed over by the system (even by other women like me in the system who are trying to take care of ourselves!)

So, I can't do that. But then... what do I do?

It's also tough because my extra mulungu priviledge divides me from Hermenigilda, Gloria, and Angelica. Even though I'm a woman, I'm "upper-class" so to speak. The rules for mulungu ladies like me are different than for them. And because of that, I think they don't really see me as a part of their struggle.

During their angry back and forthing today, comparing notes and figuring out just what's been going down right under our noses, they didn't really include me in their convo. Hermenigilda tried a couple times, but for the most part I hovered awkwardly on the sidelines, offering my supportive grunts. I wanted to join in but knew as well as they did that I had been exempted from their mistreatment. Even though I identity more with them as women than with my whiteness or wealth, those two factors continue to interfere in deepening my relationships. It's so frustrating. Yet would I give up my privilege? Could I? How? And at what cost?

Thank god my hand is cramping up, I don't feel like scribbling out an answer to that question right now.

[FRIDAY]

New day, fresh eyes, fresh heart, a game plan, lets roll!

Today, I fought Turma A...and won lol *cue Western movie theme song*

I walked into class with a plan. Assigned seating. Class rules. No more "nice-happy-cute-brincar-ing-Teacher-Karina" anymore. It's business time. On my end that means I've got to have the ovaries for enforcement. And it was tough. They broke the no-talking-without-raising-hand rule? That minus one point from your test score. Talked again without raising your hand? Minus another point. Oops, now you "mishkalgi" student (thank you Arabic for popping into my brain randomly!) you are now failing my class when 30 seconds ago you were passing.

Had to mentally coach myself through those astonished looks of disbelief... those looks that crumble my resolve and make me want to take it all back. But no! They'll survive. They'll learn. Who knows they might even forget it all by next Monday and I'll have to go through another round of deductions.

But, seeing the glass as half full this enforcement thing is as good for me as it is for them. It takes gumption to make someone live through the consequences of their actions. I’m teaching and getting through to them more about life today, than perhaps any other week of the year.

And for the first time in months, I attained a wonderful, respectful, class learning environment. It was miraculous. And it brought back some of my fondness for my little smart-asses. I ironically find myself musing that after all, they are just kids.

Then, of course right when I thought I had smooth sailing, I walked into Turma B and found one of my favorite students Vavia bawling, tears rolling down her face. "Vania," I asked alarmed, "O que e que foi??!" Between sobs, burying her face in her arms on top of her desk so I could barely hear her, I made out, "caneta," "dinerho," and "roubar."

Apparently, someone had stolen not only Vavia's pen but 40 meticais out of her school bag. That's a lot of money for anyone here. "Who has Vavia's money?" I asked the class. "You can give it to me now, without any punishment."  *silence*  "Entao, I will go to speak with Sr. Directora immediately and she will deal with the situation." And with that, I swept out of the classroom and brought back the Pedagogical Director herself who let Vavia go through everyone's bags in front of her. The money wasn't found, but I can't say we didn't try.  Some days I really do wish I could wear a Wonder Woman outfit. Or carry around a lasso at the very least haha. BAM!! Restorative justice.

Taught at the Primary School again today. Then I stayed late and helped serve lunche... a mysterious cream-of-wheat-style mash of goodness that might serve for some kids as their only main meal. At least it's not Cheetos.

Oh! One last thing! I found out my grant application for USAIDs Books for Africa program was accepted!!!!!  That means I’ll be receiving 100 childrens books in Portuguese to start up a children's literacy program here in Mapinhane! AND if that sets some solid roots, maybe I can even get a library going before I leave! Obviously the hardest work is yet to come, but we’re one step closer to putting books at kids fingertips and social/economic mobility on the horizon. BRING IT ON.

Anyways, time for some Friday night craziness. Hot cocoa, a toasty warm blanket, and some Samantha Power by kerosene lamp. I’ll try not to set my highly flammable mosquito net on fire…

Life is truly good. 

Oh and here's some pictures of my primary schoolers. How can you not love them!







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